Sunday, January 10, 2010

Lucky Bags!

a.k.a.
Fukubukuro: So cool a topic, it doesn’t need a clever blog title

One of my favourite Japanese traditions so far is definitely fukubukuro, also known as ‘lucky bags’, ‘mystery bags’ or ‘happy bags’.

As a long-time lover of the lucky dip, I was always going to go ape for fukubukuro.

On New Year’s Day, and for a short time thereafter, merchants sell fukubukuro – bags of mystery merchandise, often made up from last year’s fashion items or stock left over from the year gone by. Shoppers purchase these lucky bags at a discounted set price, and usually they don’t know what’s inside the bags until after they buy them. Sure, it’s a bit of a gamble, but you can walk away with a ridiculously good bargain.

On New Year’s Eve, while Canada and I were wandering through Shinjuku looking for an Indian restaurant, my eye was caught by a colourful department store window display of all the different lucky bags offered by the stores inside the building. Having just read about the tradition in Metropolis, I was both intrigued and excited. Later, as we walked past a clothing store window, I squealed with delight at the sight of a couple of employees packing folded clothes into a pile of canvas bags. “They’re making up the lucky bags!” I cried, giddy as a five-year-old (possibly alcohol had something to do with that feeling, too).

For the record, a lucky bag isn’t a mish-mash of spinning tops and red frogs, thrown together in a plastic bag and sold out of someone’s garage. Yes, some lucky bags are probably full of completely useless, unwanted goods (I mean, there’s a reason why some stock doesn’t sell, right?), but lucky bags are sold at both local novelty stores and top-quality jewellery and clothing stores. Bags range in price from 1000 yen or less, up to tens of thousands of yen – one of the most expensive bags is apparently sold by a jewellery store in Ginza. All kinds of stores make up lucky bags as part of their New Year’s sales – cosmetics stores, electronics stores, suit stores, homewares stores, clothing stores. So don’t be thinking that it’s like a $2 lucky dip from the corner shop – these bags are serious consumer business. Not that $2 lucky dips aren’t, mind you.

In addition to your more mainstream lucky bags, you can also get lucky bags full of specialty items – as seen by a trip to Akihabara yesterday, where I could have purchased a lucky bag full of cosplay outfits (sexy anime nurse, anyone?) or collectable anime figurines.

The bags can be excellent value for money. Apparently, sometimes you can save up to 80% on the items inside a lucky bag. A quick bout of Googling found many sites where people discussed in detail the wonderful lucky bags that they had purchased in years past. Sure, it’s technically going to be ‘last year’s’ items, or things that the store is getting rid of to make room for new stock, but generally the stuff is still pretty darn good. Stores may also put a special or prize item in some of the bags, which also encourages shoppers to purchase the mystery bags. If you go to an electronics store, you can get great value lucky bags with cameras in them, or ones that might have a surprise iPod inside.

Typically, lucky bags from popular stores (such as Muji, a neutral-toned everything store that is slated to have one of the best value lucky bags) are snapped up quickly, and people line up for hours, sometimes from midnight, to get their hands on in-demand fukubukuro. Often, stores make only a limited number of the bags – so you do need to get in quick, regardless of where you plan to shop.

Usually, the contents of the bags are a surprise – however, some stores tell you what is inside the bags via photographs, a sample, or a mannequin dressed in the lucky bag clothing. So if the surprise element worries you, you can still indulge in a lucky bag bargain while knowing what you’re getting.

***
So, thoroughly excited by this concept, I rose early (read: 9am) on the 2nd of January and went out into the wide world (a.k.a. Shin-Yurigaoka) in search of my own New Year bargain. I was determined to get my hands on a lucky bag, or several if it was my lucky day.

Unfortunately, I missed out on the coveted Muji lucky bag, and also on a Uniqlo lucky bag. Not surprising, although it was still disappointing.

However, I took my time wandering through the department store, and was delighted by the piles of lucky bags I saw at the entrances to the stores – all in differently decorated bags, some canvas, some paper, some with ribbons or wild colours. It was so much fun! Prices seemed to hover between 5000 yen and 10,000 yen for a clothing lucky bag – so I decided to find a clothing store that I liked, and then check out their lucky bag situation.

I ended up going home with three lucky bags, and a baby blue kettle I bought for 1000 yen.

Lucky Bag #1: Jewellery Lucky Bag

This one was my first purchase. The jewellery store had some nice silver jewellery, and their bag was 3000 yen, so I splurged. When I cracked open the bag, I found a ring with a green stone, a necklace with a little leaf pendant, a necklace and bracelet made of clear plastic crystal beads, a pair of earrings with little dangling circles, and a bracelet with tiny hearts as the links. Was I happy? Darn tootin’.

Lucky Bag #2: Misc Lucky Bag

This one I got from a novelty store, and it was only 1000 yen so I bought it for fun. When I dove into the bag I found about equal amounts of crap and decent stuff. Decent stuff included a fork with a cartoon frog handle, a big shampoo dispenser with a Mickey Mouse design, a Nightmare Before Christmas pencil case and photo album, several cool retro postcards including one for Special K and one for Fruit Loops, some cute stickers, and the big Nightmare Before Christmas laundry bag it all came in. Crap stuff included a bright pink Lilo and Stitch purse thing, a gold and turquoise Bambi wallet (WTF?!) with a giant plastic diamond hanging off it, a vaguely racist key cover and wrist strap, and a Homer Simpson money box. The jury is still out on a faux leather black and silver Mickey Mouse handbag. All in all, while the value of the items in the lucky bag was clearly more than the 1000 yen I paid for it, there were only about three things that I would have ever considered buying under normal circumstances.

Lucky Bag #3: Clothing Lucky Bag

Definitely my favourite lucky bag purchase, though at 7000 yen it was also the most expensive. I had been eyeing this particular lucky bag all day, as the store had some very cute items (so I hoped that the lucky bag would also contain cute items). Since I hadn’t found any other stores I liked as much, I went back to check it out properly. After some pacing, I decided to go for it. I snapped up my final lucky bag and trundled home with my arms full of purchases.

Once home, I laid out the loot. The bag, which is a nice large canvas shoulder bag, contained a thin yellow jumper made of this nice soft woolly fabric, a loose grey cotton jumper with pockets in front, a grey long-sleeved top with buttons at the neck, a dress, a pair of black and white leggings, and a long dark green puffy jacket with a furry hood.

All of it is wonderful – the jacket is warm, all of the tops are perfect, and the dress is cute (though not my usual style). The leggings are a bit on the tight side, but overall, I think I got a pretty good deal. An excellent deal in fact!

***
So all in all, lucky bags are a lot of fun. It pays to crunch the numbers and shop around, and it is also a good idea to make sure that you like what the shop is selling before you buy a mystery bag full of its wares. It’s possible to walk away with a dud, but you can always find a bargain – at the very least if you buy a lucky bag that has its contents on display. It’s true that you might end up with a bunch of stuff you would never usually buy, but that might not always be a bad thing.

I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the tradition of fukubukuro this year. I kind of wish I could do it again next year!

Thursday, January 7, 2010

'This (New) Year’s Love'

a.k.a.
Have Yourself a Merry Little New Year’s (because your Christmas blew)


So thankfully, after a truly horrendous Christmas that involved far too many tears, I spent a truly rockin’ and amazing night welcoming in 2010.

I was determined to have a good one though – I mean, after I spent Christmas night clutching my stomach and cowering in the corner of a train carriage, there was no way I was going to let my New Year’s Eve end up even remotely as crap as that whole debacle.

Luckily, Canada (as he will henceforth be nicknamed) was just as determined to have a great New Year’s – after all, it had been his hand that I had been clawing at sweatily while I cowered in said train carriage, and it had been he that I had forced off the train onto a strange and unfamiliar train platform in the middle of who knows where at god knows what time. Hardly the upbeat Christmas evening either of us had had in mind, and I did feel a little like I wanted to make it up to him with a top notch NYE.

Anyway, I digress. As I say, we were determined that fun would be had, and possibly even some kind of spiritual awakening or mystic soul quest, if we were lucky (or drunk enough). After some serious Googling, we mapped out our evening ahead of time – dinner at an undecided location (we feared that there wouldn’t be too many options, as many restaurants would be closed, so were happy to go with the flow), and then on to the New Year festivities at Zojoji Temple, which is located near Tokyo Tower in Minato, and was pegged as the ‘place to be’ by several websites. After the countdown, we would trek to Meiji Shrine for the quintessential Japanese New Year spiritual quest (along with millions of other shrine-goers), make our New Year offering, and then hopefully make it home in one (possibly frozen) piece via the delightful train system, which would be running all night long.

A little background:
Generally, New Year’s is a time of cleansing for the Japanese. It is an extremely important holiday, and a time that is usually spent with family (unlike back home, where it is a time usually spent with your head in a punch bowl). No work is done on New Year’s Day, there is no stress or worry, and the house is cleaned from top to toe on New Year’s Eve, ready for a fresh start. (I know this firsthand, as I can hear everything that goes on in the apartment above me, and whoever is up there spent about two hours vacuuming and clunking around on New Year’s Eve morning, much to my annoyance.) In essence, you’re supposed to have everything wrapped up before the year ends – finish up any outstanding jobs, tie up any loose ends, tidy up any unresolved messes.

Anyway, most people visit a temple on New Year’s Eve and a shrine on New Year’s Day (which is why Meiji goes off at about 2am on New Year’s Day) – so we decided to do the same.

Our evening started well, with some butter chicken, garlic naan and ample amounts of alcohol. On we went to Zojoji – and after we wandered through a hotel carpark, around a quaint private garden, and in a circle through a kindergarten, we finally found the temple. And it was hopping.

It was amazing. There were people everywhere, and stalls, and food smells, and excitement, and lights, and balloons. We bought our new year’s fortunes and charms, and wandered through the crowds of people just as excited for the new year as we were.

A central part of the festivities at Zojoji Temple is the tradition of writing your wish for the new year on a special slip of paper and tying it to a (biodegradable) balloon, which you release at midnight. Unfortunately, waiting two hours in line for one of the balloons and another two hours for the slip of paper hadn’t really factored into our NYE plan, so we were contented to look forward to watching the many balloons be released by everyone else.

We watched some men make traditional mochi balls (read: impressively pound away at a doughy lump with a giant mallet), and then bought said mochi balls and enjoyed their deliciousness. We drank warm sake that was only 200 yen a cup, and watched the Buddhist monks performing New Year’s ceremonies closer to the temple. There were several countdown clocks ticking their way closer to midnight, and a giant ‘2009’ in yellow lights. Everywhere we looked there were paper lanterns and people holding balloons, or little Buddhist statues wearing the ubiquitous red bibs and beanies (more on that some other time). And in the background, ever-present, Tokyo Tower loomed in brilliant yellow and white lights just behind where the temple stood.

The countdown itself was amazing. Sure, I should have practised counting backwards in Japanese beforehand, but I managed to get the ‘san, ni, ichi’ part okay and that’s the most exciting anyhow. The big ‘2009’ turned into a big ‘2010’ of course, and Tokyo Tower put on an amazing light display, which ended with ‘2010’ emblazoned on its side.

But best of all, thousands of silvery balloons with little slips of paper tied to them floated high into the sky in a cloud of merriment right on midnight – and naturally I got all misty and soppy about what a great Japan experience it all was. But it really, really was. And I really love New Year.

After that, we made our way back to the station – me all giddy and happy, trying to stop myself from buying multiple crepes and other treats along the way; both of us pleasantly warmed by sake. Tokyo Tower glowed over us, cheerfully declaring it 2010 in glittery lights. Everyone was in a good mood.

Struggling through a packed train, we also made it to Meiji Shrine in one piece. More sake ensued, as did more good luck charm buying, and another New Year fortune (this time earned through shaking a box to see which stick poked out, thus determining your fortune). We misguidedly tried a strange pancake thing that was a bit too odd for either of us, but I was delighted with our decision to buy a chocobanana. (Actually, it was more like I yelped when I saw the stand and demanded that we get one.)

The line to the actual shrine was long. And wide. And packed full of many, many people. And it was freezing. But we stuck it out, even though it was about 3am by then, and when we made it to the front we tossed our coins and took a quiet moment. It was a damn amazing experience, that’s all I can say.

Luckily, I made it back home without anything falling off from frostbite, although by then it was only a stone’s throw to sunrise time. My New Year’s resolutions involve purchasing a warmer coat, drinking more sake, and learning how to make yakisoba. More to come soon.

Happy 2010!